Served With Love: Bergama Restaurant

 
 

I had driven down Hillsborough St. hundreds of times, never giving Bergama Restaurant a second glance. However, last Monday night, two restaurants where we had hoped to eat were closed (that‘s Monday night in Durham for ya), so we were under some serious pressure to appease Joe’s eager and growling stomach. It was five minutes passed Joe’s dinner time – yikes!
On a whim, we pulled into the parking lot of Bergama Restaurant because we thought it was “Middle Easternish,” the type of food Joe’s belly was craving. We noticed the sign naming several food genres, “Seafood, Italian, American, Mediterranean.” Typically, restaurants that boast a wide variety of ethnic cuisines can be a little sketchy. However, since we were under such serious pressure, any discussion, thought process, logic or reasoning flew out the window. We needed to eat… NOW!
While at the hostess stand perusing the large and diverse menu, the owner, Zinnet Abayhan (aka Mama), greeted us. Her warmth, energy, love and passion for food were almost spell-like. Joe and I felt that it did not matter what we ordered. We just wanted anything Mama cooked! I was personally touched by the nurturing spirit she exuded, the way she made us feel at home, like she was our own grandmother. I guess that’s why all her customers call her Mama.
Mama grew up in Trabzon, Turkey, literally living in a restaurant. The restaurant was on the first floor of the building, and her whole family lived on the second. Her mother actually gave birth to her while at the restaurant. So yes, food, cooking and restaurants are in her blood. They have been her whole life.

When Mama was of marrying age, her father began telling Ismail (her now husband), “Why can’t you open a restaurant for her?” When they married thirty-four years ago her father said, “I know you are going to take my daughter away to America, but please promise me you will open a restaurant for her.” Ismail said, “Ok,” afraid that if he didn’t, her dad would be “up his collar.” Ismail was also clearly aware of his wife’s special culinary talent. As he put it, “Anything she cooks turns good. She has the genes of her dad.”

For many years, Mama worked at the Angus Barn as the sous chef, while Ismail was busy with his own business. The couple was open to the idea of having their own restaurant, but it was never quite right, until a few years ago when they found this spot on Hillsborough St. Bergama Restaurant opened for business one year ago. Finally, Mama had fulfilled her destiny. Sadly, her father was not alive to see it.

Since the beginning, Bergama Restaurant has had an enthusiastic following with many regulars as well as new customers. Mama said she gets her energy when she is busy, and her joy is in seeing her customers “shining eyes and smiling faces.” She loves the feeling that her customers trust her. As she puts it, “I am not just feeding them. I am taking care of them.”

I asked Mama what her favorite thing is on the menu. Not surprisingly, she answered, “Anything I touch, that’s my favorite. If I don’t like it, I won’t sell it.” Ismail agreed. Everything is simple, natural home cooking. Originally they started with 10% Turkish food and 90% steaks and seafood. However, Mama and Ismail have reversed that due to customers enthusiastic response to authentic, delicious, Turkish cuisine.

After spending some time with Mama and Ismail, I reflected on the possibility that Joe and I could own a restaurant together someday. They noted that owning a restaurant is a 24/7 day job. In fact, there is an army bed in the back so they can take turns getting some rest. Sounds challenging to me! But, I noticed their love and strong connection to each other, and wanted to know what makes their relationship work, in the kitchen and beyond. Mama mentioned that “honesty is everything.” Her husband told me that you have to give to receive, and you can’t say, “My way, my way only. That does not work.” Hey, husband, Chef Joe? If you read this, please take note of this important relationship advice…

As you can probably see, you basically fall in love with Mama and her husband. As Ismail put it, “We want our customers to feel like this is their home away from home. Clearly, everything at Bergama Restaurant is served with love.

Bergama Restaurant

3520 Hillsborough Rd.

Durham, NC

919-383-0300

Savor on,

Marney

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